With a Red Brush and Yellow Tie: On Specificities of the Kalmyk Pilgrimage

Abstract

The article draws on field research to demonstrate the specificities of contemporary organization of pilgrimages in Kalmykia, which is largely defined by the local religious situation – the activities of the Sangha of the temple “The Golden Abode of the Buddha Shakyamuni” and The Сhief Lama of Kalmykia Telo Toulku Rinpoche. I explore various aspects of pilgrimage, such as the routes and changes thereof, which not only reflect the political geography of the modern Buddhist world, but are also influenced by the displacement of Dalai Lama, his exile, and the mobile character of teachings given by Dalai Lama as he travels the world. I further pay attention to the experiencing of the miraculous – the aspect that highlights the religious character of mass pilgrimages and constitutes a marker of faith, as both believers and people simply interested in Buddhism alike travel to hear the teachings of Dalai Lama.